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I shoot a 870 Wingmaster and need help on which shells to buy....(HELP!)

Discussion in 'Wisconsin Whitetail Deer Hunting' started by silver_yummies, Nov 12, 2007.

  1. Hey guys. Which slug shells should I shoot with an 870 wingmaster 12 guage shotgun? I think I usually shot the 1 oz MAX slugs made by remington before but now there are like 3 types of slugs by remington. 1 of them is like 1 oz 2/3"4 at like 1560 fps and the chart on the box shows it hardly drops an inch out to like 150 yards or something. These are for a rifled barrell? Is mine a rifle barell or a smooth barell? It was purchased like 7 years ago and has a short stock barell on it. If it is a rifle barel then I should go with 1560 fps slugs righ? The MAX slugs drop like 10 inches over 100 yards. Any info on how to make this simple for me would be greatly appreciated!
  2. if you're shooting a wingmaster, then you probably have a smooth bore. does it have a bead sight or iron sights? iron sights should mean rifled barrel, bead should mean smooth barrel.

    Remember this: if it's a smooth barrel, buy the rifled slugs. If it's a rifled barrel, buy the sabot slugs.

    Now here's my opinion, don't shoot a rifled slug past 75-100 yards. There's data that says sabot slugs can travel farther with greater accuracy, but I have yet to test this in a hunting environment.

    I hope this helps.

  3. thanks for the info. It has the iron sights on it. What are Sabot slugs? And I never shoot my shotgun farther than 100 yards
  4. sounds like you have a rifled barrel. while you're cleaning the barrel, obviously unloaded, peek down the barrel, if it's rifled, you will see grooves that spin down the inside of the barrel.

    Just to be sure, I'd take the gun to your local gunshop and have them confirm what we're thinking. If you shoot rifled slugs down a rifled barrel, it will foul the barrel.

    Sabot slugs are basically bullets for a shotgun. They have a casing that sits around the slug. This keeps it down the center of the barrel while it's traveling down the barrel.

    They are more expensive, but more advanced and accurate. PLus, you can buy Federal brand w/ barnes expanders in them. These open up on contact and make for a more efficient kill.

    again, hope this helps. Let me know what you find out from the gunshop.
  5. wow am I confused a but now. So I have a rifled barel, but I DON'T want to shoot rifled slugs?? What are rifled slugs for then? Why are they called rifle slugs? Do I have to go to a specialty store for Sabot shells? never seen them before. I usually get my shells at like fleet farm.
  6. check your local game laws on hollow points, but I'm pretty sure the answer is: yes, you can use hollow point sabots on deer. They open up greater on impact resulting in more cutting and damage than a solid lead slug which flattens out.

    I'm not a ballistics expert, but I go with the Federal Barnes Expander slugs. you'll also want to experiment w/ either 2 3/4 or 3 inch shells as well. They'll shoot different and you may find one to be more accurate for your gun. You could run a poll and 10 people with the exact same gun you have will tell you that 10 different slugs are best for their gun.

    THe reason for a "rifled" slug through a smooth bore barrel is that the rifling on the slug will turn the slug as it passes down the barrel. THis "should" give it greater flight and more accuracy. The sabot slugs pass down the barrel w/ the plastic sleeve intact and then the sleeve falls as the slug exits the barrel. The rifled barrel does the work for the slug and forces it into the rotation.

    Are your slugs behind the counter at Fleet Farm? or out where you can get your hands on them? Just ask the guy/gal at the counter, they should be able to show you the difference. Sabot slugs are much more expensive, but supposed to be better.
  7. I've never hunted with them, but at the range on paper the Hornady SST sabots are accurate as anything I've ever tried. I believe they're only available in 2-3/4" (in 12 gauge).

    The Federal Barnes sabots are all my brother will use until this year. They have a new Ballistic tip expander sabot out now that he was going to try out.
  8. Ok so I got the gun out to take a closer look at it and took some pics the best I could. I am now certain it is actually a smooth barel and not rifled. it appears there is some sort of choke at the end with straight lines engraved in it parallel with the barel of the gun. So can you guys tell by these pics if I am right on my assumption.

    SO with this barell, I am correct in shooting rifled slugs? The high velocity slugs with flatter trajectory and not the sabot ones? THANKS GUYS!!! I really need to figure this out before saturday!

  9. can you remove the barrel and look directly down it? I have the Mossberg 500 combo field/deer. It has two separate barrels, a 28 inch smooth bore for trap, etc. and a 24 inch rifled deer barrel.

    It does look like it's a smooth barrel. also, are the chokes removable? Make sure you don't have too small of a choke--this can potentially damage the gun when a slug comes flying out!

    You're on the right track...get some time at a range by don't want that first deer to get away because you're not sighted in right.

    Good luck!
  10. It looks like you might have the fixed improved cylinder barrel. Remington offers that barrel or the fully rifled barrel on the slug guns. If it is the improved cyl. you use the rifled slug. Follow jaymac's advise and take it to Gander or place of your choice and have someone confirm it. If it is rifled, try out those Hornady SST's. Awesome accuracy and repeatability. My son uses 'em in his Mossberg 20ga. with great results.
  11. thanks guys - yeah i just removed the darn barel and looked down it. It is as smooth as a baby's bottom. Thanks again for the help! I am off to buy some shells now. Will be shotting it tomorrow.
  12. So I bought some remington sluggers - high velocity - 1800 fps 7/8 oz. I think I usually shot 1 oz slugs. All they had in the 1 oz slugs were the MAx and those drop like 10" over 100 yards and didnt want them. Is there a big difference between the 7.8 oz and 1 oz besides maybe knock down power?
  13. I've only ever used 1 oz. or more in a 12 gauge. Most ballistics tests I've ever seen show a sight in at 100 with close to 3" +/- drop off at 125. I would try a reputable factory load...Federal, Hornady, Remington, Winchester...

    I've always stuck with Federal for my shotgun ammo.

    Here's their 12 gauge loads webpage, click on the upper left dropdown menu for slugs:
  14. sounds like you're on the right track. T-minus 2 days.